The Helmand has two seating areas: the large main room into which the customer enters from the front door, and the small back room crammed too tightly with tables for the riff-raff. Last night, Pete and I were seated in the back room.
Pete had already been seated and was sipping an Anchor Steam from a bottle by the time I arrived. Though I was seated by a staff member, at least five minutes passed before our waiter arrived to take my drink order. I asked for a beer, which was not listed on the menu, as far as I could tell. Ten or fifteen more minutes passed before our meal order was taken and finally a basket of bread and a plate of sauces were delivered to the table.
Despite the less than stellar service, the food was flavorful, well-portioned and satisfying. My ivory rice, green spinach and red lamb were laid out on the plate in even thirds and the aroma drifting upwards to my nose was deeply warm and spicy. My first forkful was of the sauteed spinach and I was immediately addicted. What was I tasting? Was it only the onion and garlic in which the spinach had wilted? Tumeric? Nutmeg? I couldn't be sure. Next, a bite of the lamb, which had been simmered in a tomato base long enough that I could easily cut the meat with the side of my fork. The meat mixture was dotted with whole cardamom that bloomed in my mouth, bright and lemony. Pete and I did not speak. We ate. I swept up every last grain of rice and every swipe of spinach on my plate with a piece of bread.
When he cleared our plates, our busboy asked if we would like to see the dessert menu. We answered no, but our waiter dropped a set off anyway. We declined a second time. I was often jostled while seated at the center table in the back room and felt the waitstaff was attentive only at the wrong times. But the food was a delight and really, that is why I go to restaurants. I'll forgive the jostling for another plate of that lamb.
Lamb Lawand: Leg of Lamb sauteed with onion, tomatoes, garlic, mushrooms, fresh cilantro, yogurt and spices served with sauteed spinach and challow rice 18.95
Dwopiaza: Seasoned tenderloin of lamb cooked with onions, sauteed with yellow split-peas and tossed with onions lightly marinated in vinegar. Served with pallow rice. 18.95
The Helmand
143 1st St
Cambridge, MA 02142-1205
(617) 492-4646
www.helmandrestaurantcambridge.com
26 June 2009
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